Heidegger in the Cayman Islands

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What could Heidegger possibly have to say about the offshore? The question may seem incongruous. On one side, the Black Forest thinker, who read Parmenides and Hölderlin and made “dwelling” the fundamental trait of the human condition, after having compromised himself with the Nazi regime.

“Dwelling,” he writes in his famous Darmstadt lecture of 1951, “is the way in which mortals are on earth.”

On the other side, the trusts of the Cayman Islands, the Panamanian shell companies, the fashionable law firms and the sleazy accountants, passports bought, fortunes without a fixed address that slip from one jurisdiction to another as quickly as a bank transfer, all that the Anglophones call the “offshore world.”

This incongruity is nonetheless fertile.

Two discourses try to map the shifting universe of the offshore. The first is that of economists and regulators, who seek to fix billions, balances and jurisdictions, even as their object often eludes them as they measure it.

The second is that of journalists and prosecutors. They denounce kleptocrats, money launderers and oligarchs, but risk reducing a global system to a few conspicuously criminal figures.

Between the two, it could be useful to slide in a thought about what the offshore is. It is here that Heidegger becomes relevant, and one can, somewhat unwillingly, haul him from his Todtnauberg hut toward the open seas around the Cayman Islands.


The House Uninhabited

The distinction Heidegger builds in his 1951 lecture “Building, Dwelling, Thinking” between the place (Ort), the site (Platz), and space (Raum) offers a reading grid for envisaging the offshore world.

His final diagnosis above all could describe what the great fortunes are constructing: a world covered with residences and empty of dwellings: “The true housing crisis lies in this: mortals are always seeking the being of dwelling, and first must learn to dwell.”.

A site makes visible this paradox.

Never has the Principality of Monaco been so opulent. Its gross domestic product surpassed, for the first time in 2024, the ten-billion-euro mark , its financial institutions held, by the end of the same year, 176 billion euros in assets , more than two residents in five are millionaires (the highest density in the world ) and its real estate is the most expensive on the planet .

And yet, who lives in this city-state at its peak?

This is not a rhetorical question or a pun. The housing dwelling crisis seems to have its apex in Monaco, where the price per square meter has surpassed 70,000 euros .

“Monaco doubles its population at dawn only to empty again at dusk. Those who sustain it cannot reside there. Those who can reside there hardly stay.”

Olivier Vallée

In the 2025 census, there were 38,857 residents from 144 different nationalities, spread over two square kilometers. The nationals, 9,333 Monégases, less than a quarter of the population, only recently became the first community there, and the state houses them largely in municipal apartments with moderate rents, the free market having become inaccessible to them. Of the 59,724 private-sector workers who keep the city-state’s economy running, nine in ten do not reside there. More than 16,000 arrive each morning from the city of Nice alone, with thousands more from Beausoleil, Cap-d’Ail or Ventimiglia, before leaving again in the evening.

Monaco thus doubles its population at dawn only to empty again at night. Those who sustain it cannot reside there. Those who can reside there hardly stay. “Mortals dwell as they save the earth,” Heidegger wrote.

Tax residence thus appears as the opposite of this arrangement. It too has its history and its infrastructure. The casino and the Société des Bains de Mer, created in 1863 by Prince Charles III to anchor the Principality’s revenues on gaming, and which remains majority-owned by the Monegasque state, are only places. They now sit alongside specialized banks that connect Monaco to financial flows exempt from ordinary banking and tax regulations.

“Even Pope Leo XIV’s spring 2026 visit, the first by a pope in the Principality since the sixteenth century, sounded a reminder of this vacancy.”

Olivier Vallée

The authorities are, indeed, laboriously trying to remove the city-state from the FATF’s “grey list,” the intergovernmental body that fights money laundering and financing of terrorism, where it has been inscribed since June 2024.

Yet, even Pope Leo XIV’s spring 2026 visit, the first by a pope in the Principality since the sixteenth century, sounded as a reminder of this vacancy. In urging his guests, at the Mass held at the Louis-II Stadium, to reject “the idol worship of power and money,” the pope addressed a magnificently uninhabited house.

What are we allowed to know?

To continue this reasoning, it is important to enrich Heidegger’s philosophy with the latest contributions from sociology and political science that study the geopolitics of the offshore phenomenon.

Starting with the work of Ricardo Soares de Oliveira, political scientist and keen observer of Lusophone Africa and its mutations, who begins from the observation of the migration of African funds toward Gulf and Asian financial centers to describe the deeply fluid dimension of this second planet. 

In a groundbreaking publication, Soares de Oliveira recalls, following UNCTAD, that almost 88.6 billion dollars flee Africa each year, and shows that these flows increasingly pass through Dubai, Singapore or Hong Kong. He traces how offshore oil from the Gulf of Guinea fueled the flight of capital into secret accounts of international banks that escape tax and justice thanks to the legal sanctuaries of offshore finance. This outward migration of Southern capital calls for a systematic study of the clandestine outward orientation of financial flows from African states and their partners, whether multinationals or traders.

“A web woven from funds domiciled in the Cayman Islands, to the frontier markets of Vietnam and Myanmar. At the center, big spiders, with knots of small spiders—lawyers, accountants, company secretaries—who weave, transport, and conceal.”

Olivier Vallée

Kimberly Kay Hoang, sociologist at the University of Chicago, meanwhile studies the Asian tilt of the very wealthy and the globalization of elites who operate in this space that British writer Oliver Bullough has dubbed “Moneyland,” a virtual country without territory or flag where fortunes reside rather than people.

The model she proposes is one of spiderweb capitalism. A web woven from funds domiciled in the Cayman Islands, in Samoa or in Panama, via relay companies in Singapore and Hong Kong, to the frontier markets of Vietnam and Myanmar. At the center, “big spiders,” with “little spiders” at the knots—lawyers, accountants, company secretaries—who weave, move, and conceal. This web forms the infrastructure of immaterial wealth that transgresses borders.

This phenomenon, now an essential dimension of contemporary geopolitics, must nevertheless be grasped over the long term. Historian Vanessa Ogle has shown how the offshore “archipelago” of places formed in the 1950s–1970s, when decolonization and the postwar fiscal state tightened their grip on the mobility of private capital. These ancient sites designed to secure and keep private and dynastic fortunes discreet now attract renewed interest because they are associated with kleptocracy, illicit economies, tax evasion, human trafficking and terrorism financing.

“Offshore presents itself as an identity crime.”

Olivie Vallée

The understanding of these derivatives of capital, thanks to economists like Gabriel Zucman, progresses. Hoang, however, concedes: “Until recently, we did not have comprehensive scholarly studies capable of comprehending the scale and functioning of the offshore system.” It is that the great masters of this hidden economy, as the sociologist admits, remain hidden, discreet, or simply unknown.

Not having access to the big spiders, the inquiry often turns to what one might call a gatekeeping ethnography. It observes the system from its intermediaries and back offices, to uncover, at the heart of the administrative machinery, the levers of the offshore’s unspeakable desire. The risk of the method is well known. By interrogating the supporting players, one reinforces the stereotype of offshore reduced to concealment, a vault for the Olympian race of mega-rich.

Identity Offenses 

If the big spiders shy away from inquiry, their traces can become public. What scholars cannot reach through fieldwork, investigative journalism reconstructs through documents, leaks and land registries. And what their files reveal first are identities: multiple passports, borrowed names, split lives. Offshore presents itself as an identity crime.

Groups of journalists produced the famous Panama Papers, publishing the 11.5 million documents from the Mossack Fonseca firm, transmitted to the Süddeutsche Zeitung and then exploited in 2016 by the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists (ICIJ). They highlighted the importance of law firms that, under the heading of Panama City, laundered dirty money and sent it back to other banking centers less exposed to Washington’s gaze.

The OCCRP (Organized Crime and Corruption Reporting Project), investigative journalism platform founded in 2007 and partner of the ICIJ, tracks dictators, leaders of organized crime and crooked officials. It has recently described a case study, that of two Iranian brothers, Hossein and Abolfazl Shamkhani, sons of Admiral Ali Shamkhani, adviser to the Supreme Leader who was pronounced dead in the June 2025 strikes on Iran, before actually being killed in the February 2026 strikes.


At the head of a fleet moving Iranian and Russian oil, they bought villas in Dubai up to 29 million dollars under borrowed names Hugo and Sami Hayek. The inquiry completed the portrait of these doubled lives by noting their Commonwealth of Dominica passports.

Another revealing profile, more surprising than Kazakh oligarchs or Serbian traffickers often targeted by OCCRP, is Su Jiangbo. This forty-year-old man, sought in China for running an illegal casino, holds a Saint Kitts and Nevis passport, obtained for about $270,000, and has created twelve companies in Great Britain to invest in prestigious London real estate. Eight-five properties, now frozen to the tune of $108 million by British justice.

These thorough and important investigations nonetheless reveal a rift between the offshore object and the things that populate the grand outside house. For Heidegger, the object is what stands before a representation, a category, a list, a charge. The thing, the thing that gathers a world around it. But offshore never exists as an object. It exists only as this interlacing of diverse and interrelated things that cannot be reduced to a counterfeit passport, a villa that is not inhabited, an alias used temporarily, a shell company that serves only as a shell company.

“The insular or sham passport is no less an aggravating circumstance of offshore citizenship, for it recalls the fiction of the state issuing papers, which it withholds from the poor and can only sell to the rich.”

Olivier Vallée

These portraits thus sketch a singular system, made of combinations and stacking of illegality and side-stepping. Kimberly Kay Hoang has shown how to highlight this elusive dimension, while avoiding equating offshore with criminality.

Her spiders “operate in the gray,” between the lawful and its shadow. The insular or sham passport is no less an aggravating circumstance of offshore citizenship, for it recalls the fiction of the issuing state, which withholds papers from the poor and can only sell them to the rich. Political scientist Ronen Palan rightly saw in it the “commercialization of state sovereignty.”

These biographies thus respond to a dynamic of deterritorialization. Investments in urban hubs or private islands do not serve the project of dwelling. They contribute to defining a new global identity that brings fiduciary nomads (the “nomad millionaires” Palan identified as a sociological type) closer, while distinguishing them from the sedentary magma.

Yet the insistence on dirty money and its unappealing figures should not mislead. The bulk of offshore traffic passes through the most ordinary financial sphere, a site of globalization and unification of flows, where wealth is drained from the peripheries toward the centers. Gabriel Zucman estimates that about 8% of the planet’s household financial wealth is housed in tax havens. Legitimate tax planning, abusive or fraudulent, parallel banking, grand financial crime—these practices all use the same vehicles: accounts and structures domiciled in a jurisdiction different from the one where the beneficiary resides, managed by the world’s most famous banks.

“Offshore data remains structurally evanescent, for its mode of being is withdrawal. The object eludes precisely where one attempts to measure it, which testifies to its non-statistical nature.”

Olivie Vallée

Their service, courteous and efficient, acts as the link, in a railroad sense as much as a banking one, between the ordinary world and its exceptional double. The Cayman Islands, Bermuda and the Bahamas enjoy this offshore-jurisdiction status, a status shared by Switzerland, Ireland or Belize as well.

An analysis by the Autorité de Contrôle Prudentiel et de Résolution counts thirteen countries or jurisdictions where cross-border banking balances exceed, on average, $100,000 per inhabitant. This threshold is a floor that leaves many truly circulating masses in the dark. In Monaco, a financial center still largely underage, the bank attestations demanded from residency candidates have, since 2017, required a minimum deposit of half a million euros, which some bankers now propose raising sharply.

The identity offense thus continues in a blind spot. No one can see the whole system, not even the Bank for International Settlements (BIS), which now publishes only anonymized aggregates of flows to offshore centers, and whose statistics let hundreds of billions of dollars slip through the cracks.

Compliance mechanisms, such as checks on politically exposed persons or Know Your Customer procedures, are applied rigorously only to individual clients of La Banque Postale or Crédit Agricole, while hidden fortunes pass through the United Arab Emirates before being redirected to Singapore or the Isle of Man. Offshore data remains structurally evanescent, for its mode of being is withdrawal. The object eludes precisely where one would seek to measure it, which testifies to its non-statistical nature.


The Place, the Site, and Space

Neither financial engineers nor anti-corruption crusaders manage to grasp what philosophers would term the “thingliness” of the offshore, what makes it what it is. Both camps fixate on countable becomings (accounts, jurisdictions, billions) without interrogating their mode of being.

A brief detour to Deleuze suggests the direction to take. His geophilosophy invites us to “connect thought to the outside,” which, he said, philosophers have never really done, “even when they talked about politics, even when they talked about walking.” But that outside remains flat in his work. To discern something there, one must return to Heidegger, to the place, the site, and space.

The places, first, are given to us. As early as 2000, the IMF’s reference census counted nearly seventy countries and territories hosting an offshore financial center, Monaco included. “The place does not exist before the bridge,” Heidegger wrote. It is the thing that constitutes the place, not the other way around. The trust, the shell company, the banking license, or the flag-of-convenience registry are the bridges that give rise, amid the seas, to places of full legal operation.

The site then sits alongside the place, or within it, like the Geneva bank by the Rhône, the Delaware, or these London and Côte d’Azur real estate investments that distinguish themselves from the place while revealing it.

Finally, space exceeds the borders of places and the limits of sites. It stretches along banking connections, capital movements, swaps and Clearstream flows. “A space is something that is managed, made free, that is, inside a boundary,” Heidegger again writes, and the boundary is not what marks the end of something but “the starting point from which something begins to be.”

Offshore takes this Greek definition literally. It is the shore, the shore, that makes it possible. The boundary of political sovereignty becomes the beginning of a new form of higher authority.

Offshore thus calls for, in the words of the final Heidegger, a “phenomenology of the inapparent,” a science of what reveals itself only as it withdraws.

Olivier Vallée

How, then, to recognize the offshore for what it is? Not as a substance that one could locate, but as a space always at a distance from itself, a fault line. The discourse that seeks to seize it, such as geopolitics, is less about maps than topology. Heidegger’s coup de force, explains Dominique Pradelle, is to have withdrawn space from both geometry and perception. Space is not what I perceive, but what makes sense of the things I use. It is constituted by lived proximities, not coordinates. The Geneva private bank is, for the fiduciary nomad, closer than the town hall of his own district. Being and Time called this èloignement—the practical abolition of distance—and financial architecture has accomplished it.

Everything thus comes together here. Offshore is a world of instruments kept at hand. The jurisdiction is to wealth what a hammer is to the hand; it fades in use and only reappears in case of a breakdown, asset freezes, document leaks, or a listing on a grey list.

Offshore thus calls for, according to the words of the later Heidegger, a “phenomenology of the inapparent,” a science of what only shows itself when it withdraws. The lacunary BIS statistics, the front-men of Dubai, the Shamkhani brothers’ aliases, Su Jiangbo’s shell companies are its way of appearing, for its essence is to withdraw.

And there remains Heidegger’s warning spoken in Darmstadt in 1951, which gave this essay its starting point.

The true housing crisis does not lie in a lack of homes. Mortals “are always seeking the being of dwelling” and they must “first learn to dwell.”

Offshore is the unfinished form of this crisis, planetary, liquid, inapparent. From Dubai’s towers to Bankside penthouses, from Larvotto terraces sold at 70,000 euros per square meter, to yachts moored at Port Vauban, it tirelessly builds the great uninhabited house of the exterior, a house that no one will ever live in.